To dye or not to dye? It's an age-old question. Bleach-happy Ancient Greek heroes reddened their hair into a fiery symbol of courage, while their Roman counterparts used natural dyes to darken their locks. During the 1700s, French women used powder to tint their tresses shades of blue, yellow, pink and white (punk rock pioneers). Today, about half of all American women color their hair, and men are getting in on the game in record numbers.

Due to high salon prices (or temporary bouts of creativity), more and more people are dyeing their own hair. You've seen these people walking around-they can usually be identified by tufts of fried orange hair peeking out from beneath large hats. But a home-hair-colorist's best weapons against hair dye mishaps are careful planning and knowledge. So whether you're trying to bring back the color of your youth or are simply interested in trying something new, SoYouWanna.net is happy to help you dye your own hair.

1. MAKE SURE YOU SHOULDN'T BE GOING TO A PROFESSIONAL STYLIST

We understand that home hair coloring is much less expensive than going to a professional colorist (a box of hair dye usually ranges from $5 to $10, whereas a salon coloring usually costs $40 and up, depending on the method used and the length of your hair). However, if you screw it up, you'll end up paying for the cost of the home coloring AND cost of the salon (which is usually much higher when fixing already botched hair . . . Ouch, says the pocketbook).

While companies are constantly improving their home hair coloring products and making them easier to use, the following list outlines the times that you should go to a salon and leave your hair in the hands of a professional:

  1. Your hair is severely damaged. It breaks easily, and your brush and bathroom floor have more hair on them than your head does. Damage can come from many different things, including:

      • Excessive brushing and tearing of the hair (this can also come from constantly pulling it back in rubber bands).

      • Too much heat. You've heard the drill before. Keep your use of the blow dryer and the curling iron to a minimum.

      • Sun damage. Skin isn't the only part of your body that needs protection from UV rays. Summer sun worshipers are especially at risk for hair damage, but UV rays damage your hair every time you step outside into daylight-even in the winter. No, you don't need to wear a hat everywhere you go, but definitely be conscious of the sun's rays and cover up if you're going to be out in the sun for a while.

      • Over-perming. You should never re-perm hair until the original perm has grown all the way out. A normal perm damages hair, so a perm on top of a perm is a double whammy.

      • Over-washing. Yes, washing your hair too much can dry out your scalp, cause flakes, and lessen the natural oils on your head that protect your hair's roots.

    • You want to lighten your hair more than three shades. If you are a brunette and want to go blonde, get thee to a salon. Even if your hair doesn't appear to have any red tones in it, all dark hair contains some red pigment. Therefore, lightening your hair in one step will most likely turn your hair an unattractive shade of orange that hasn't been popular since the days of Queen Elizabeth I. In this case, you'll need to undergo what is known as a "double process." The first step is to "strip" the hair of its pigment. The second step is to "add" the new color of choice. It sounds complicated because it is complicated - there's a high likelihood of orange-y results. A professional colorist can prevent this by using a toner to cancel out redness, thus providing a more attractive golden hue.

    • You're feeling dramatic and you want to do something crazy, like go from blonde to black. At least go to the salon for a consultation about what colors will look good with your skin tones. You'll save yourself some heartache if you know in advance that burgundy is a color better reserved for your wine than for your hair.

    • You've already colored your hair, you screwed up, and you want to fix it. Don't stay in hiding, attempting again and again to correct your own mistake. The more chemicals you put in your hair, the worse it's going to get, and the more expensive it will be for a stylist to return you to your beautiful self.

    We hope that none of these apply to you. You just want to make a nice, subtle change to your healthy hair. You've come to the right place, so keep on reading.

    2. CHOOSE THE COMMITMENT, COLOR, AND BRAND

    There are three different variables to consider before buying a home hair-coloring product: the color commitment, the actual color, and the brand.

    Commitment

    If this is your first time coloring your hair, it's probably best to start with a low level of commitment, and then (if you're happy with the results) you can work your way up the commitment ladder. The following are the most common commitment levels used by most major product lines, ranked in order from the least committed to the most:

    1. Highlighting. Highlights are usually permanent, and they are a great way to add texture and subtle color to your hair-whether they're red or blond or even blue-without dramatic changes. Beware that highlighting often takes a long time, as you usually have to use a pick to pull your hair through tiny holes in a plastic cap. The more hair you pull through the holes, the more dramatic the results. You can also choose a non-permanent highlighting kit, which involves painting streaks of color onto your hair with a thin brush. You'll look cute for a few days, but the results tend to be too subtle and short-lived.

    2. Semi-Permanent Color. Also called "stains" or "washes," semi-permanent products coat the hair with color that washes out after about 6 to 12 shampoos. You won't have any worries about your roots because the color washes out before roots can really show. However, since semi-permanent products don't contain any ammonia or peroxide, you won't be able to lighten your hair any shades, you'll only be able to add color.

    3. Demi-Permanent Color. Demi-permanent products last longer (approximately 24 to 26 shampoos) and also contain no ammonia, so again, you won't be able to lighten your hair. However, a small level of peroxide allows you to create a more noticeable color change.

    4. Permanent Color. Permanent color uses both ammonia and peroxide, which enter the hair's cortex and create a change that cannot be washed out. Keep in mind that the end result is always a combination of the added pigment and the original pigment of your hair, so the dye may look different on you than, on your friend, the model on the box, or Julia Roberts. But as the name suggests, when you wash with permanent color, if you don't like it, your only options are to wait for the color to grow out or to dye over it (which, again, DEFINITELY requires a pro).

    Color

    Shades are basically broken down into two categories: warm and cool. People with warm eye, hair, and skin tones should choose a warm hair color, and people with cool tones should choose a cool hair color. Which are you? We don't know . . . we've never even seen you before! Usually, "warm" people have golden or reddish tones, whether in their skin, hair, or eyes, and "cool" people have bluish tones and skin and hair without a hint of gold. This cool/warm separation can be tricky, especially if you have both warm and cool features, so it's best to get a professional opinion. Any beautician at a makeup counter in a department store would be happy to help you figure out if you're a "cool" or a "warm" (as well as if you're a Jet or a Shark, and if you're a jean or a khaki). Just pretend you're buying something.

    After you decide what group you belong to, you can better choose your color. "Cool" people should stay away from hair colors with reddish or golden hues and seek out the cooler colors, ranging from platinum to blue-black. "Warm" people should choose colors with golden and red highlights, from strawberry blonde to dark auburn. Remember, unless you're prepared for disastrous results, stay within a few shades of your natural color.

    Brand

    Finally, it's time to choose the brand. There are simply too many brands on the market to go over the pros and cons of each, but professional stylists suggest that you use a popular brand name. Why? Two reasons:

    1. Popular brands are usually popular for a reason. If L'oreal's hair products were known to turn hair green, you'd hear about it. But if you use the obscure "Bombshell in a Bottle," you might turn into more of a bomb than a bombshell.

    2. Popular brands usually have a help line that's listed right on the box. Although you're most likely not going to get hair experts when you call, you'll get answers to common problems you may encounter during the actual dyeing of your hair.

    Your best bet is to go with a brand that a friend has recommended. However, don't go with a brand simply because you like your friend's hair color (it won't look the same on you). Go with it because she says it doesn't smell like rotten eggs, it was relatively easy to use, it doesn't fade quickly, yada yada yada.

    There are an increasing number of hair dyes made especially for men on the market, though most of them are gray-reducers. L'oreal, for example, makes "Feria for Men" in a wide range of colors. "Tipping" has become a common male request in salons, and this involves bleaching the ends of the hair (think *NSync). The same effect can be created at home by bleaching your whole head and letting the dark hair grow back in. Besides, if you don't like the look, you can just shave all your hair off, carry a tambourine, and ask for money at the airport.

    3. DYE YOUR HAIR

    Now you're ready to get dyeing. There are two very important tests that you must perform with each and every hair coloring product you use: the allergy test and the strand test.

    Allergy test

    The allergy test will make sure that you don't get a disgusting rash all over your scalp after you dye your hair. Perform the allergy test at least two days before you dye your hair. In a small plastic cup, mix together about a teaspoon worth of all the ingredients that you'll have to mix to dye your hair. Dermatologists suggest that you smear the concoction on the inside of your elbow (it's one of the most sensitive parts of your skin). Leave the goop on for at least 48 hours (covering it up with a band-aid when you shower). If nothing terrible happens, you're good to go.

    Strand test

    The strand test is exactly what it sounds like, and you can do it either while performing the allergy test or you can do it the day you dye your hair. With the teaspoon of dye (and a gloved hand), choose a hair strand, and completely saturate it with the dye. Leave it in for the amount of time you'll leave the dye on the rest of your head later, and then wash hair. Check out the strand. If it turns green or purple, get a new hair coloring product and sue the pants off the manufacturer for emotional distress. If the result is what you're going for, then find someone else to sue and dye on.

    Before you get started with your whole head, make sure you get everything together that you need before you dye your hair. Time is of the essence, and you don't want to be fumbling around for a towel while goop is dripping down your face. You'll need:

    1. Rubber gloves. Most of the coloring kits come with a pair of gloves, but you can always purchase a few pair at any beauty supply store.

    2. A comb. Not the one you normally use.

    3. Crappy clothes. Don't dye your hair without having as much of your skin covered as possible. This stuff isn't exactly gentle on your skin, and though you might be tempted to do this au natural so you won't ruin any clothes, keep in mind that it's better to damage an old T-shirt than your skin.

    4. An old towel, for wiping gunk off your forehead, neck, and ears.

    5. A large plastic bag and hair clip.

    6. A timer.

    VERY IMPORTANT: READ THE DIRECTIONS ON THE BOX AT LEAST TWICE BEFORE YOU BEGIN. Just in case you missed our yelling, we'll say it again in another font: read the directions on the box at least twice before you begin. Different products have very different instructions. For example, some require your hair to be dry, and others wet. You don't want to be fumbling around with the directions when you've already dumped the bottle of goop onto your head.

    So here we go:

    1. Depending on the product, you will probably need to mix some bottles together (or shake up one bottle). So mix your bottle, following the instructions exactly as they are written.

    2. After the bottle is thoroughly mixed, work the dye from the roots out, making sure your hair is eventually completely and evenly saturated.

    3. You might want to use a comb to help you spread the gunk through your hair and to smooth out the clumps.

    4. Put the plastic bag over your hair (but not over your entire head, or you will die and dye at the same time). Twist the bag tightly, and secure it with a hair clip. The heat will help the chemicals react better.

    5. Set your timer for the amount of time stated in the instructions. Do not leave the dye in your hair longer than the time suggested. Remember, these chemicals aren't great for your skin, and there's a reason why there's a time listed in the instructions. If you want stronger results, use a hairdryer over the plastic bag.

    6. During the next thirty minutes or so, take deep breaths. Read a book. Listen to music. It's going to be okay. Remember: it's only hair, and even if it doesn't come out exactly as you would have liked, hair can usually be easily altered (or at least hidden).

    7. When the timer rings, take off the bag, hop into the shower, and follow the directions in the box. Usually, you're supposed to wash your hair with shampoo until the water runs clear, and then condition with an after-dyeing conditioner that should come in the box.

    Ah, the moment of truth. You're either ready to face the world singing "You Make Me Feel Like a Natural Woman (or Man)," or ready to invest in head-sized paper bags.

    Never try to dye your eyebrows or eyelashes. The FDA prohibits salons from doing it, as it can cause inflammations around the eyes, and even blindness, so certainly don't try it on your own.

    4. CORRECT YOUR MISTAKES

    Most problems arise because the dye doesn't take evenly, and the reason is because your damaged hair accepts the color much more quickly than your undamaged hair (e.g., frequently-blown-dry bangs will take to the dye quicker). The result can leave you with a streaky result, which might be desirable . . . or not so desirable. Many products on the market allow you to reuse the mixture if this streakiness happens. Others don't, because the mixture becomes useless thirty minutes after you first mix it. If you're concerned about potential unevenness, make sure you buy a product that allows you to reuse the dye. Then all you'll have to do is "spot color" the parts that didn't take as well. Put the plastic bag back over your hair again and set the timer for the amount of time that is relative to how much the hair didn't take. For example, if the hair that didn't take is about a third lighter than the rest of your hair and the original time was thirty minutes, set the timer for ten minutes. Don't worry about it matching EXACTLY. Non-dyed hair never has perfectly even color. It's like getting a nose job that's too perfect . . . imperfections make it look natural.

    Another potential problem: you somehow screwed up and now have orange hair. You have two choices:

    1. If your hair is only mildly orange, you can try using a very, very low peroxide demi-permanent color in a cool brown or a dark blonde.

    2. If this doesn't work or if you already look like Ronald McDonald, go to a professional colorist. He/she can try to get you back to your original color with minimal damage to your hair. Chalk the entire thing up as a learning experience and a funny story for the grandkids.

    5. MAINTAIN THE COLOR

    The golden rule of maintaining color is to take care of your hair. Make sure to avoid the common hair enemies listed in Step 1. Remember that the chlorine in pools can strip or dull color, so pour bottled water (which can lessen the effects of chlorine) in your hair before swimming, and consider wearing a swimming cap. You should also use a quality shampoo and conditioner made especially for color-treated hair. Most companies that make hair dyes also make these types of shampoos and conditioners.

    If you used permanent dye and have to worry about roots, you will most likely have to dye your roots every 4 to 6 weeks. This process is slightly different, and the instructions for a root job should also be in the box. Keep in mind that this process may be more time-consuming than the original dye job, because you have to work the dye only in the root area, which is much trickier than covering your whole head. Do not dye your hair more than necessary, as there have been studies that suggest that long-term use of hair dyes may cause certain types of cancer. As with any cancer warning, you can take it or leave it, but, at the least, only re-dye when necessary and take great precautions to avoid contact of the dye with your skin.

    A great trick for allowing permanent dye to grow out when you're finally sick of it is to use a highlighting kit. The highlights will break up the solid color with soft streaks and make your roots less noticeable. Besides, this method is infinitely easier than trying to dye your hair back to its original color, which is virtually impossible if not done at the salon.

    You're now ready to begin your love/hate relationship with hair dye. Follow the directions, take precautions, and have fun! Dye with a friend so you can celebrate or commiserate together. And if you look disastrous, remember that hair grows back in your original color. You're not stuck with it for life, so feel free to experiment. Anyway, hair is already dead, so you can't kill it. We'll cross our fingers for you, and in the meantime, we're working on "SoYouWanna find the perfect hat?"