5. KNOW HOW TO AVOID PLUMMETING

Communication

Good communication is critical when climbing. At times, the leader and the second may lose sight of one another. Without verbal communication, one climber may begin climbing before the other is ready to belay (a scary thought). So a set of calls should be practiced and agreed upon beforehand. Some common rock climbing verbal calls include:

  • "Off belay!" The leader has reached a secure place. The second may discontinue the belaying process.

  • "Taking in!" The leader will now pull the slack of the rope that remains between the two climbers. The second should watch for snags and tangles in the rope.

  • "That's me!" The second informs the leader that no slack remains.

  • "On belay!" The leader is ready for the second to begin climbing.

  • "Climbing!" The second answers that he is ready.

  • "Climb!" The leader gives the final cue to begin the climb.

  • "Slack!" The climber asks the belayer for extra rope.

  • "Up rope!" The belayer may remove any slack that has accumulated.

  • "Tension!" The belayer should take in enough rope to support some of the climber's weight; a somewhat urgent call.

  • "Watch the rope!" "Watch me!" or "Take me!" A fall or difficult move is anticipated. The belay may be tested, so get ready!

Rappelling

We hate to break it to you, but after you get to the top, you're gonna have to find a way to get back down. There are three ways to do this: rappelling, walk-down routes, and jumping. For obvious reasons, we shall only consider the first two.

One method of returning to the ground after a climb is rappelling. You've seen robbers rappel down the sides of buildings on TV: you hook a rope to the top of a rock, and you bounce down the side of the rock as you let a little bit of rope out on each bounce. Rappelling is a rather dangerous part of the climb, but some people consider it the most enjoyable part also. During the ascent, the rope is present as a safeguard, but during the descent, the rope becomes the means of movement, and a safeguard no longer exists. To begin rappelling, the rope is run from the anchor on the rock through a screw gate carabiner on the harness over the shoulder and to the opposite hand. The rope is held behind the body by one hand to control the friction generated and thus the speed of descent. Friction devices such as the figure eight descender have made rappelling safer and easier, but be wary. Make sure that each element of the rappel is secure before beginning to move down the rock face. And NEVER attempt to rappel until you have gone through the proper training with an instructor -- if you don't, it'll be the most dangerous part of the climb.

If rappelling freaks you out, then note that many climbs have a walk-down route, which of course doesn't require ropes and safety. Only feet.

Planning and patience

We don't mean to get all preachy, but planning and patience are crucial elements of rock climbing. Rock climbing is a lot like chess: you have to think ahead, know exactly where you're going to plant your hands and feet after each move, and stay safe throughout the whole process. Here are some tips:

  • Look down to find footholds and up to find handholds. You may use the same hold as both a handhold and a foothold.

  • Move smoothly, and try not to employ unneeded motions, as this will use significant energy (and possibly make you lose your balance).

  • Look for footholds at a normal stepping distance. Lofty steps are often strenuous, but small steps waste energy.

  • If possible, choose handholds at head height. Holding hands above the head is more tiring.

  • To begin, always have contact with the rock in three places, two feet and a hand or two hands and a foot.

  • Try to use your legs and not your arms when possible. Your legs are stronger than your arms, and they already support your body naturally.

You're high above the ground. Suddenly all of your protection pops out of the rock one by one. Your rope breaks in half, and you are left hanging from a cliff's edge by one finger. That is a movie. Gotcha! Learn how to climb correctly, trust your gear, and it won't happen to you. Yes, clinging to a rock a hundred feet above the ground is scary, but the feeling you'll get when you reach the top is indescribable. What a rush. What an amazing accomplishment. What dedication. And what a view! (Don't forget your camera.)