2. PICK A NEIGHBORHOOD OR SUBURB

Getting around

The Metro Toronto area is made up of lots of different neighborhoods in and around downtown, most of which are reachable by one of the two (soon to be three) subway lines. The underground "rocket" is the easiest and fastest way to get around the city. There are also plenty of bus routes and lots of cabs to help you make your way around the city. As opposed to other Canadian cities, you must "hail" Toronto cabbies to get them to stop. It's easy to get around town without a car, but if you decide you must have one, remember that parking is likely to increase your rent by about 10%. Keep in mind that traffic is hectic, commutes are long, and if you give other drivers an inch, they will try to get their cars in front of you.

Toronto's neighborhoods

Once you know where you are going to work (assuming you are not independently wealthy), figuring out where you want to live is easy. Just weigh the following considerations regarding your commute and your needs for the familiarity and friendliness of a potential 'hood.

  • Commute: The subway, a bus, walking distance, or your own car? If you're gonna take public transportation, make sure that you find a place that's near a stop. The last thing you want to do is walk a crisp 15 blocks to a subway or bus stop when there's so much snow on the ground that the mayor has called in the military. (This is a Toronto joke, best told with a knowing, sardonic tone.)

  • Familiarity: If you already know people who live in Toronto, you definitely want to ask them for their opinion. You might even want to live near them, just so you'll know someone nearby. Or if the people you know are the kind of people who you wish you didn't know, then that could play a role too. Finally, if you've been to Toronto before (or you're there now and crashing on a friend's couch as you look for your own place), then consider the area where you spend the most time.

  • Friendliness: Is it a priority to live in a neighborhood where everyone knows your name, a la Cheers, or will you be slaving away too much to do anything other than crash when you get home? While it's always nice to live in a friendly neighborhood, it might be too far away or too expensive. One more decision to weigh.

Now you're ready to look at an online map and start considering each neighborhood. The two landmark streets to get familiar with are Bloor Street, which runs east/west through the middle of town, and Yonge Street, the longest street in the world, which runs north/south from the harbourfront all the way up to Northern Ontario. The main subway arteries also run along these two streets, so be sure to look at areas falling along one or the other. Determine how close you need to be to work and figure out which neighborhoods fall into that radius.

In the heart of downtown, you can find Chinatown, Little Italy, The Annex, Cabbagetown, and Harbourfront.

  • Chinatown, including the Kensington Market Area, is full of older 2 and 2 ½ story homes converted into apartments. Generally a cheaper rental area, it also attracts a lot of students, which in turn might make it unattractive. Lots of great food markets.

  • Little Italy is the area along College Street with all the ultra-cool bars, cafes, restaurants, and the best repertory theatre in the city. Again, mostly older converted houses, but also some three-story walk-up buildings.

  • The Annex is an area just north of Bloor and west of Avenue Road. A mix of high-rises and nice Victorian duplexes, The Annex is rather expensive due to its proximity to Yorkville, the uber-chic of Toronto shopping.

  • Cabbagetown is east of Jarvis and west of the DVP (Don Valley Parkway), near Gerrard and Carlton Streets. It is an older Victorian neighborhood that the Yuppies took upon themselves to fix up so that no one else could afford it. Most rentals in this area consist of basement apartments.

  • Harbourfront describes the area along the shore of Lake Ontario, as its name would suggest. Most of this area is made up of high-rises with beautiful views and extremely high rents.

The next layer away from downtown, but still on the subway lines, includes The Beaches, The Danforth, Riverdale, Forest Hill, Bloor West Village, Rosedale, Parkdale, Leaside, and Queen West.

  • The Beaches is just that: a community next to a great Toronto beach. Quaint shops, funky boutiques, and great little restaurants line Queen Street East, the neighborhood's main artery, which runs parallel to the Beach. If you have a dog or like to walk along the boardwalk, this place can't be beat. But be warned: on weekends, The Beach is jammed with tourists and shoppers.

  • The Danforth is also known as Toronto's Greek Town. An eclectic mix of health food stores, Greek restaurants, Irish pubs and trendy boutiques makes this a popular spot to live or hang out. The Danforth is also highly convenient since it's right on the subway line.

  • Riverdale is an older (and more reasonably priced) part of Toronto. Apartments here are generally found in duplexes and large converted Victorian homes. It's a family-friendly neighborhood with restaurants and shopping a modest walk away.

  • Forest Hill, one of the poshest Toronto areas, has less in the way of rentals. There are many modern apartment buildings around the Forest Hill Village area, and some older buildings further out. The stately turn-of-the-century homes nearby make for great walks.

  • Bloor West Village is a popular Toronto address, along the lines of The Beaches - very busy on the weekends, great food, great shopping, and great coffee. The rentals are a mix of high-rises, apartments above stores, and houses or duplexes. Rents can be high in this neighborhood because of the demand, but bargains can still be found.

  • Rosedale is the most expensive area in Toronto, and hasn't got much in the way of charm or conveniences. Jags and Beamers line the driveways, though there are a few expensive high-rises (most of which are condos).

  • Parkdale, according to many, is the next Cabbagetown. It is rather grungy and run-down; in 5 to 10 years, it is predicted to become shiny, yuppie, and new. This does not help the renter, of course, who will be living there now, but it does help keep the rents low. It can get quite dangerous at night, by the way.

  • Leaside is in the former East York, just east of the DVP near O'Connor. The area is a mix of housing in a surprisingly quiet neighborhood with good access to the highway and the subway (a short bus ride to the south is The Danforth).

  • Queen Street West houses the cool, artistic crowd, and the quirky shops and restaurants along this strip reflect this. If you're looking for a loft to paint in or a room in which to compose the great Canadian novel, you need look no further. The area north of Queen, known as The Grange, is also home to the Ontario College of Art, so there are many student berths in the area.

Other communities on the periphery but not quite in the sticks include: Etobicoke, North York, Scarborough, Richmond Hill, Markham, Vaughan, Mississauga, and Brampton. Some are rather industrial, some have their own Chinatown's, and others are pretty bland 'burbs, but all represent potential housing. Don't overlook them in your search, especially if the budget is tight, because all are reachable by GO bus or train from the city.

As you visit these neighborhoods, follow your gut. If you like an area, then search especially hard for a bargain there. As you search, keep the following factors in mind:

  • Is the rent affordable?

  • Are the stores, shops, gyms, movie theaters and bars in the area affordable? (No matter what they say ahead of time, most people spend their money in nearby establishments.)

  • How close is the public transportation you will use, especially if you don't have a car?

  • If it matters, what are the nearby schools like?

  • Who lives in the neighborhood? Yuppies? Students? Leafs fans?

  • Where will you park your car? If the apartment you're looking at doesn't include parking, how easy is it to park on the street? What is the access to major highways?

  • Who pays for utilities? And how are they powered? Gas is cheaper than electric, and oil fluctuates along with OPEC.

  • What is the average winter utility bill for the area? Remember, Toronto can get ass-freezing cold, especially with that lake-effect snow and wind chill.

  • What is the crime rate like? Call the local police to double check, as your future landlord could be less than honest on this one. Come back at night to see if you feel safe there, and ask your friends who know the city.